Conversation (Veggie friends)

 

The vegetables were in conversation with each other, and with me.

I didn’t know what they would say, or even who would greet me. Jackie had chosen them, at my invitation. “I’m thinking of making veggie friends,” I emailed her. “Basically some grain like farro cooked simply, and then a bunch of roasted or sauteed veggies that go together…If you have time to go to your local market over the weekend, I'm sure there are beautiful things there.” 

Our dinner guests, too, had no idea who they would meet, but they were game. These particular ladies hadn’t met each other before; I’d known Jackie and Allison for years and Frieda for just weeks but I felt like they’d all enjoy each other’s company. They all lived in the East Bay, not too far from Jackie’s house where I was staying, Jackie being one of several kind lady friends to host me while my son Leo was at camp with his friends. Half Moon Bay, Palo Alto, now Lafayette, then Marin, back to Half Moon Bay and finally Santa Cruz to pick up Leo: My itinerary was a whirlwind of Bay Area beauty and so much lady love. Everywhere, we gathered over food. Some I cooked, some I didn’t; all of it shared with generosity and joy and all of it the medium for the pigment of our conversations.

Beets with beet greens and spices

Conversing with the vegetables Jackie had bought was like a game – what had she chosen and how did they want to play? The beets wanted to be with their greens, roots roasted in found spices from Jackie’s pantry (turmeric, cayenne, whole cinnamon sticks) and smoked paprika I picked up at the market, piled on top of labne laced with more paprika and meyer lemon juice. The kale spoke to the sweet potato, roasted separately with coconut and pepitas and then combined. Summer garden bounty – zucchini, fennel, tomatoes – all sang together roasted with rosemary and topped with feta and mint, an idea sparked from dinner two nights before at my former manager Becca’s house when she made an Ottolenghi recipe to go with grilled sausage.

I could give you rational rules for why these choices – varying color and texture and so on – but the real answer is that it wasn’t logic, it was listening.

I loved Tom Robbins novels when I was in high school – Spoon and Dirty Sock and Can O’ Beans had their own inner lives and dialogues. Why not vegetables? Why wouldn’t they speak to each other, and to me? Sometimes the message was clear. The farro in its package was crawling with insects. “Don’t serve me,” it said. “Let me die in peace in the garbage can.” Other times, more subtle. The onion and chickpeas I had been frizzling to mix with the now-retired farro suddenly called out for the beet greens – “Join us!” – melting together and then topping the labne-beetroot platter.

“I bought a steak to grill too, because that’s what I like to eat,” Jackie said, “and I thought we’d do some dates and goat cheese and walnuts and honey for an hors d’oeuvres.” “Perfect,” I replied. “Thank you.” She worked, I cooked, and then we came together in the afternoon to finish the dishes together. Our friend Kristen and her husband’s chocolate chip cookies couldn’t make it from the city; I found some strawberries in Jackie’s fridge and plated them with store-bought chocolate toffee.

What do women talk about when in conversation for the first time? The gifts each one of us contributed – the wine, the food, Jackie’s table settings in her garden where we ate. Appreciation for who shaped us: Jackie let me wear her great-grandmother’s apron while we cooked. Where life was taking us, transitions and the challenges we’re meeting, and the books and podcasts and people and practices supporting us along the way. What’s inspiring us, and what we’re curious about. Gatherings we’d come from or dreamed of hosting. And most of all, what was right in front of us, the gift of presence. Strangers no more, neither the ladies nor the vegetables, now deep in conversation with each other.

Recipe as feeling: Conversation (Veggie friends)

  • Invite friends to play.

    Veggies on a towel drying
  • Listen to what conversation wants to happen.

    Cast iron pan with chickpeas and greens
  • Set the table.

    Table setting on outdoor table
  • Close with sweetness.

    Strawberries and chocolate

Actual recipes

Choose pairs of veggies you feel like go together (examples below). Wash and leave to dry on a kitchen towel.

Choose seasoning that fits both veggies. Olive oil, sea salt, and fresh ground pepper are always a good choice.

Preheat oven to 400℉ while you cut the veggies. Choose a shape that complements the shape of the veggie. If they’re organic, leave the skins on. For greens, tear or chop into bite-sized pieces.

Coat with your seasoning and lay out on parchment-lined sheet pans to roast. If the vegetables have different water content and thickness (like kale and sweet potatoes), roast them separately and then combine them.

Roast until they look and smell done to you, ~25-40 minutes for most veggies.

Combine on a platter that complements their color, shape, and texture. If they ask for it, top with fresh herbs or something crunchy like toasted seeds.

Leftovers are great on tartines.

Example 1: Beets and beet greens with frizzled onions and chickpeas

Serves 4-6

INGREDIENTS

1 bunch beets and their greens, washed and dried
2 cinnamon sticks
½ tsp turmeric
½ tsp cayenne
1 tsp smoked paprika
1-2 cinnamon sticks
Salt
Olive oil
1 onion, thinly sliced
1 can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
Optional: Labne or thick plain Greek yogurt (if using, mix with salt, a dash of paprika, and juice of a lemon – you can use the zest in a different recipe like Example 3)

Preheat oven to 400℉. Chop beets into 1-inch chunks, keeping the skins on. Toss with olive oil, spices, and salt. Spread on parchment and roast.

Add several glugs of olive oil to a frying pan. When hot, add the onion, and fry until brown and crispy. Add the chickpeas, fry for another few minutes, and then add the beet greens. When the greens are wilted, turn off the heat.

If using labne, spread on a platter, then the beets (slightly cooled), then the greens and chickpeas. Can be served warm or at room temperature.

Roasted beets with spices

Example 2: Crispy kale and sweet potatoes

Serves 4-6

This is a similar technique to the kale soba recipe.

INGREDIENTS

1 bunch kale, washed and dried, leaves separated from the stems and torn into ~2-inch pieces. Reserve the stems for another recipe (they’re good in omelettes, stir fries, or soups).
1 large or 2 small sweet potatoes, washed, dried, and sliced into ¼-inch by 1 ½-inch slices
Olive oil
Salt
½ cup flaked unsweetened coconut
½ cup pepitas
Optional: ½ cup nutritional yeast

Preheat oven to 400℉. Massage kale with half the olive oil, salt, coconut, pepitas, and nutritional yeast if you’re using it. Spread on parchment and roast until crispy, tossing halfway through, about 25 minutes total.

Toss sweet potatoes in the same ingredients. Spread on parchment and roast until edges are crispy and insides are soft, a bit longer than the kale.

Combine together in a bowl or platter. Can be served warm or at room temperature.

Roasted kale and sweet potatoes

Example 3: Fennel, zucchini, and tomatoes with feta and mint

Serves 4-6

INGREDIENTS

1 bulb fennel, trimmed and thinly sliced
2 small zucchini, tops and tails trimmed, cut into rotated chunks (slice on the bias and then rotate so each piece has a unique trapezoidal shape)
1 pint cherry tomatoes or 1 large heirloom tomatoes, cut into chunks
1 bunch rosemary
Zest of 1 lemon
Olive oil
Salt
½ bunch mint, torn or sliced
½ cup feta, crumbled

Preheat oven to 400℉. Combine all ingredients except feta and mint and spread on parchment-lined sheet pan. Roast until everything is slightly crispy and juicy. Pile on platter and top with feta and mint.

Tomatoes, zucchini, fennel, rosemary

Published August 18, 2022

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